Moog K80149 Ball Joint

The factory procedure for ball joint replacement is to replace the entire knuckle with the ball joints already installed. Beating out old joints and new ones in damages the cavities for the ball joints.

I had them examine the ball joint on the car and they said that it looked like a typical pressed ball joint. I just went through the ball joint problem on my 2001 LS v6 and I used the ball joints referred by one of these forum readers. The later cars as well as the early "sport" LS's have a 16mm lower ball joint. The later cars as well as the early "sport" LS's have a 16mm lower ball joint. The later cars as well as the early "sport" LS's have a 16mm lower ball joint. The later cars as well as the early "sport" LS's have a 16mm lower ball joint. BUT only for the early 2000-2002 cars with the smaller 14mm ball joint. BUT only for the early 2000-2002 cars with the smaller 14mm ball joint. BUT only for the early 2000-2002 cars with the smaller 14mm ball joint. BUT only for the early 2000-2002 cars with the smaller 14mm ball joint. Finally you can get the ball joints seperate from the entire control arm. Finally you can get the ball joints seperate from the entire control arm. Finally you can get the ball joints seperate from the entire control arm. Finally you can get the ball joints seperate from the entire control arm. My car was one of the autos that had the ball joint recall for incorrect torque specs from the factory.

Even though the aftermarket makes replacement ball joints, I would not attempt replacement of solely the ball joint. If you damage the hole of the steering knuckle getting the ball joint in/out, you have a more dangerous situation than the ball joint being worn. I wanted to replace the fuel pump, and couple of other small things but that's what I was told, anyways, I just purchased a 3 yr extended warranty through my credit union which comes a lot of stuff, including ball joints, coils, ac, transmission...

When I loosen the ball joint nut and remove it, the floor jack supports teh control arm and I then let it down slowly until the control arm touches the floor and hangs freely. You can also replace just the joints on the uppers, but you run into the same problem with the bushings so you might as well replace all of it. A new upper control arm will come with new bushings and a balljoint included. You can do the ball joints seperately on the lower arm, but you also need to do the two control arm bushings. By the time you end up doing all of that, it's not much more to just replace the whole arm that comes with the new ball joint and bushings. The failure could have been prevented in the first place had there been the ability to grease the joints (probably a 3 cent grease zerk x 4 would have added too much cost to the car according to Ford - IDIOTS). Basically you tighten the nuts with your fingers so that the control arm is supported by the bolt and so the bolt doesn't slip out of the eyelets. This makes the job about 10 times harder than it should otherwise be. If you are having a shop do the work, have them replace the entire upper and lower control arms on both sides. What I do is get the front of the car up on jackstands high enough so that I can get a heavy-duty floor jack with a wide base under the control arm. I've gone through this procedure on both of my Town Cars and did the work myself both times and both of them were well under 100k at the time.